When you’re surfing, understanding ocean waves can make a night and day difference from session to session. For example, if you can tell which times are best to paddle out, or when the right time to catch the wave is, or where to sit on your board in the water – surfing will be much easier and enjoyable for you. In this blog post, we’ll be breaking down the different parts of the wave. Once a person is able to understand this, they’ll be able to see surfing in an entirely different way and their perspective will be changed forever. We hope this helps you!
Crests and Troughs
First, it’s important to clarify the difference between the top of the wave and the bottom of the wave. As the diagram shows, the very top of the wave where it curls downward is called the crest, while the lowest point below the curl is called the trough. These terms are directly related to catching the wave at the right place. When the crest of the wave breaks, and turns into whitewater (the white, shapeless foam that the wave produces after it has finished curling) the wave is no longer worth catching – unless you’re learning how to surf. Instead, locate the point in the water where the crest is just high enough to push your board forward, but still far enough away from turning into white water that it will allow you a long, enjoyable ride.
Wave Periods
Secondly, surfers benefit greatly from being aware of the wave period – or the distance between the crest or trough of one wave to another wave’s crest or trough. The arrows on this diagram also show wavelength as well; period and wavelength are related, but wavelength has to do with time. Long periods typically allow for better waves because of greater power and a better shape. Not to mention, surfers have an easier time paddling out when they aren’t getting pummeled by wave after wave. People looking for an easy paddle out should definitely chase longer period swells, or at least look for a lull (calm period) so as not to exert too much energy and to play it safe.
Wave Height and Ocean Level
Last on the list for understanding ocean waves, knowing wave height as well as ocean level allow surfers to ride within their abilities. Keeping this in mind will prevent you from making unwise decisions about paddling out. On the other hand though, waves are not always as tall as they seem. The height of the wave is from the trough to the crest, and the base ocean level is not taken into account. It’s important to keep in mind – particularly in stormy or choppy waters – that the ocean always has a base water level. This level is sometimes hard to see when the water is turbulent, but it’s always there nonetheless. Using this understanding is extremely helpful in deciphering surf reports and making informed decisions about whether or not it will be safe for you to surf.
